Log Cabin Installation Manual

GARDEN BUILDINGS WESSEX INSTALLATION MANUAL - THE FERNDOWN
4.7M(W) x 5.7M(D) x 2.68M(H)

Click here for full printable manual with diagrams.

The key to successful installation is a good, perfectly level base. Spending time on this will help you put the log cabin up and ensure it lasts for a long time.

RECOMMENDED BASE PREPARATION
It is essential that your log cabin be erected on to a firm, level base and far enough away (24 - 30cm) from any walls to allow for any overhang.

METHOD 1 - Paving Slab Base
You should remove any vegetation from the area. Lay the slabs on to sand or ballast to the minimum base size required (as above). Use a spirit level to ensure that the slabs are completely level. This
method is not suitable if your log cabin is sited on a sloped area.

METHOD 2 - Concrete Base
You should remove any vegetation from the area. Lay approximately 5cm of hardcore on to which you should lay approximately 5cm of concrete to the base size required. Using a spirit level ensure that
the base is completely level. A good way to ensure that the base is square is to measure both diagonals (corner to corner). The measurements will be the same if your base is square.
If the base is uneven you will find an increased difficulty in installing your log cabin and you may encounter problems at a later date. If the base is not level and you have opted to have your
garden log cabin erected, we regret that we cannot do so until a suitable base is laid, and a revisit fee will be incurred.

PLANNING PERMISSION & BUILDING REGULATIONS
Planning permission is not generally required as the Wessex Range of garden log cabins are classed as “Portable Buildings”, however, the interpretations of planning requirements varies with different local authorities. Ultimately your local planning authority (local planning authority usually means your District or Borough Council) decides whether or not planning permission is required. If you are in any doubt as to whether or not planning permission should be obtained you should contact your local planning authority. Examples of cases where planning permission may need to be obtained are as follows:
Your log cabin is being erected in the grounds of a listed building, a conservation area or green belt land.

• Your log cabin exceeds 30m ² floor area (none of the standard Wessex Log Cabins exceed this).
• Your log cabin will stand taller than 4 metres once erected (none of the standard Wessex Log Cabins exceed this).
• Your log cabin will cover more than 50% or more of the grounds in which it is to be erected.

The information given here is just a guide, and not a definitive list of all situations where planning permission may need to be obtained. If you have access to the internet then you may find the website www.planningportal.gov.uk useful. The interpretation of building regulations may also vary from area to area. We believe that the Standard Wessex Log Cabin Range complies with building regulations, however if your log cabin is for public or business use you should contact your local authority for further advice. We do not accept liability in any cases where a Wessex Garden Log Cabin has been erected without the necessary planning permission or where the necessary building regulation rules have not been followed.

LAYERING THE WALLS: STORAGE AFTER DELIVERY
If you are not going to start the installation of your garden log cabin immediately it is very important that the components are stored carefully. The materials should be stacked horizontally, and be protected from weather conditions such as humidity and the sun. Please note that for health & safety reasons we advise that at least two people assemble this log cabin.

SPECIFICATION
Min. Base Size Required 4.5M(W) x 5.5M(D)
Packed weight 1600kg
Overall roof size 5.19M x 6.66M
Approximate pitch angle 15°
Log Thickness 44mm
Thickness of Roof/Floor Boards 19mm

TOOLS REQUIRED:
SPIRIT LEVEL - To ensure that your base and walls are level.
HAMMER & MALLET - To knock logs together with the aid of a knocking block, which is provided inside the pack and for roof & floor board installation.
TAPE MEASURE- Use when checking off logs and to ensure that the correct lengths of logs are being used when installing your log cabin.
STEPLADDER- Needed when installing the roof boards and felting.
SAW- To trim down roof & floor boards.
SCREWDRIVER- Required at various stages throughout installation.
DRILL - You will need a 8mm wood drill bit to secure storm braces.

GETTING STARTED
Please ensure that the logs are covered or stored inside prior to assembly as the machining is extremely precise in order for them to interlock properly and it may become difficult to fit the logs correctly if the boards do become wet and swell. Ensure that your base is level with a spirit level and to the right measurements required. Using the specification checklists, sort the logs out, placing them on the side of the base they will be needed so that you have everything you need to hand once you start building the walls. By laying the logs out in this way you won’t have to hunt for each log and this will ultimately save you time! Don’t place the logs directly on grass or a muddy surface as it will be very difficult to clean them afterwards! It is important to remember that the door and window can be installed on either side of your log cabin and with the door at the front or rear end. It is important to decide how you wish to position them before you start installation.

YOU WILL NEED TO:

• Check all your components are present*
• Check all your bits and pieces are present*
• Make sure you have all tools to hand
• Make sure you have all installation manuals and
diagrams*

*When you receive your garden log cabin, you will receive a technical specification with it. On this copy there will be a control number for your log cabin, please quote this number if you find you have any parts missing or if you have problems with your log cabin.

INSTALLATION GUIDE

1. LAYING THE FOUNDATION BEAMS
The foundation beams AR1 & AR2 should be placed on the ground in accordance with the Foundation drawing. They should be laid with the 60mm edge facing down to the base. Check that the foundation beams are level by using a spirit level. Nail the foundation beams together using the 120mm nails. Once you have installed your foundation beams check that your log cabin is square, by measuring the diagonal lengths with a tape measure. If the two diagonals are exactly the same then the log cabin should be square. If not, you need to adjust the foundation beams until they are square and the diagonals are the same.

2. LAYING THE FIRST LAYER OF LOGS
Lay one half log 001 on to the foundation beam at the rear of your log cabin and the other 001 log onto the foundation beam at the front. Then, lay one 010 log on the side of the log cabin which is to be blank and a 012 & 013 log on the side where the door and window are to be positioned. Interlock the side logs with the front and rear half logs. Make sure that the logs are sitting squarely on the foundation beams by using a spirit level and screw down the half logs to the foundation by using the 70mm screws in each log.

3. LAYERING THE WALLS
1. Take two of the 009 logs and position them on top of the half log at the front of your log cabin correctly, either side of where the door will be and interlock them with the side logs. Place the knocking block provided inside the pack over the logs, and using a mallet or hammer, gently knock them into place taking care not to damage the groove of the log. 2. Take one 002 log and position it on top of the half log at the rear of your log cabin. Using the same procedure as above, gently knock the log into place. 3. Take one 012 log and one 013 log and place them onto the side of your log cabin on top of the 012 and 013 logs already in place. Note that the position of the door will be the space between the two logs. Gently knock the logs into place. 4. Take one 010 log and place it onto the remaining side of your log cabin. Gently knock the log into place. 5. Repeat steps 1-3 three times.

4. FITTING THE DOOR
Take the complete door together with the frame to your log cabin and position the over the half log in the space at the front of your log cabin. To prevent excessive movement of the doors, fix the frame to the bottom half log with one or two screws. Do not screw the door frame down firmly until the log cabin is complete in order to allow you to make final adjustments. Follow the same procedure and install the door and frame for the single door; however, this must be fitted to the foundation beam.

5. BUILD THE WALLS TO FIT THE WINDOW
Once you have positioned the door, continue building the walls. Follow the steps before until you have laid the 7th layer of logs as you look at the side of the log cabin. Steps 1,2 & 4 in section 3 remain the same, but for step 3 you should alter the procedure slightly: 3. Take two 013 logs and position at either end of the wall. Take one 014 log and position firmly against the door frame. Repeat this step, along with steps 1,2 & 4 of section 3 until you have laid 10 layers of logs as you look at the side of the log cabin.

6. FITTING THE WINDOWS
Fit the window fittings to the windows. The windows are supplied with a frame and the whole section should be placed over the log in the gaps for the windows.

7. FINISHING THE WALLS
Using the remaining logs, build the walls up to the eaves of the log cabin, as per the drawing. The 010 & 011 logs should be placed at the top of the side walls.

8. INSTALLING THE GABLES
Gable sections (Apex) can be fitted once the walls have been completed. They interlock into the side walls.

9. ENSURING YOUR LOG CABIN IS SQUARE
Now is the time to recheck that your log cabin is square. Using a spirit level, check each wall of your log cabin is vertical and recheck the diagonal lengths of the log cabin to ensure they are the same. Adjust the log cabin accordingly until it is square. Once the roof has been installed this will lock your log cabin into position and it will be very difficult to adjust the position of your log cabin. If you find that your log cabin is not square you will be more likely to incur later problems with your doors and window sticking etc.

10. INSTALLING THE PURLINS (Rafters)
Taking the ridge purlin PR1, (this is the purlin that has a slight ridge down the length) and put into position at the apex of your log cabin. The notches in the purlin should sit inside the notches in the gable. Using the mallet and hitting block, make sure that the purlin is tightly in position. Follow the same procedure for fitting the remaining two purlins PR2. Using a spirit level check that the sides, front and rear of your log cabin are vertical.

11. FITTING THE ROOF BOARDING
Once the purlins are in place you can begin fitting the roof boarding 070. The roof boards should be only slightly tapped together. Fix the roof boards to each purlin using the 2.5 x 50mm nails provided. Once the roof boarding is complete fit the roof edge reinforcement slats 080 along the underneath of the length of the boards to hold them in place firmly.

12. FELTING THE ROOF
Once the roof boarding is complete you should felt your log cabin. Cut the felt provided into lengths that match the full length of your roof. Fix the lengths of felt; starting from the lowest edges of your roof, using either roofing felt nails or staples. Make sure that you leave an over-hang of approximately 10cm on the sides so that you can nail or staple the felt to the roof edge reinforcement slats. If you have opted for a shingle roof then please read the attached shingle installation guide.

13. FINISHING THE ROOF
Once felted you will need to add the finish-ing pieces to the roof of your log cabin. Fix the wind brace 110 to the fascia boards (100) and then fix over the felt in line with the top of your roof. The eave edging 090 is fitted over the felt at the sides of the log cabin. To finish, fit the diamonds 120 to the apex of your log cabin at the front and rear of your log cabin.

14. FITTING THE FLOOR
We recommend that you protect the floor boards from muddy footprints. The floorboards should be fitted as the roof boards and slightly tapped together( to allow for movement). Fix the floorboards with the 2.5 x 50mm nails provided. Fit the floor beading 130 around the edges of the log cabin, using the brass coloured nails provided.

15. FITTING THE STORM BRACES
You will now need to fit the storm braces (140). The storm braces are fitted against the inside of the interlocking wings on the front and rear corners of your log cabin. The storm braces will help to stabilise your log cabin in the event of high winds, although they do not make your log cabin immune to storm damage! Each of the braces has an oblong shaped slot cut into one end. This is the bottom of the storm brace. Drill into the bottom of your log cabin and attach the brace, using the bolts, nuts and washers provided. Only use your fingers to tighten this end of the brace. Drill into the top of your log cabin and attach the brace, again using the bolts, nuts and washers provided. This end of the brace can be tightened using a spanner. Ensure that the top of the brace is approximately 25 - 35mm below the roof boards.

HANDY HINTS
Throughout installation you should continually check that the Garden log cabin is completely square and level. This will eliminate later problems with the doors and window sticking. To help achieve this it is essential that your base is completely firm and level. If your foundation beams are just 5mm out of square, your door frames will eventually twist as the log cabin tries to squares itself.
A quick and simple way to ensure that the foundation beams are completely square is to measure across the diagonals. Both diagonals should measure the same distance. If they do not then you must adjust the foundation beams accordingly to ensure that they are the same.
Ensure throughout installation that the walls of your log cabin are square both horizontally and vertically.
If your apex appears to be higher than the walls of your log cabin then this means that the logs are not slotted into position correctly. To ensure that they are correctly in position, use the knocking block to knock the ends of the logs into place as per the drawing:

TREATING YOUR GARDEN LOG CABIN
Once you have erected your Wessex Garden Log Cabin, it is important to maintain it correctly. If treated and maintained correctly you should enjoy your Wessex Garden Log Cabin for many years. Apart from the floor joists, the log cabin is supplied completely untreated. It is strongly recommended that you treat your garden log cabin within 14 days of installation. When treating your log cabin, please bear in mind that colours may appear slightly different due to the individual qualities of timber. When applying treatment to your Garden Log Cabin, it is important that you stipple it into the corners and log slots as this will help prevent moisture from seeping in. When choosing your treatment ensure that it is suitable for use on planed wood, and not for sawn timber. For more information on our range of treatments, please contact our sales team on 01362 822434.

AFTERCARE APPEARANCE OF GAPS
Timber is a natural product and will vary with changes in humidity and temperature. When the weather becomes extremely dry, small cracks may appear between the boards. These cracks will disappear when the weather normalizes. Small cracks that are formed after a long drought period cannot be avoided, however, they do not affect the static load bearing capacity of the Wessex Garden Log Cabin. If gaps begin to appear between the boards then it is possible that the storm braces have been fitted too tightly. The first thing to do in this case is to loosen off the bolts of the storm braces to see if this allows the log cabin to settle back into position. If problems persist with gaps appearing between logs and loosening the storm braces does not resolve the problem, place a block of wood into the ends of the logs and using a mallet, hit them back into place gently. (See handy hints) Gaps will also appear between the boards if you restrict the movement of the boards in anyway. We strongly advise against installing any fixtures that will restrict the movement of the log cabin.

OTHER PROBLEMS
Roofing felt is liable to some movement with changes of temperature that can sometimes result in a rippling effect. This is perfectly normal and will not reduce the quality of the roofing felt. Doors & Windows will expand and contract with changes in humidity and temperature. To minimise the risk of any problems occurring, ensure that all of the windows are treated using an appropriate product. It may be necessary to adjust the screws holding the units in place from time to time.